Knit QR Code Potholder Pattern

So far I have found only two websites that have finished a knit QR code. Both used very fine yarn and several stitches per pixel. I found a hand knit QR code here. The other one was embedded in a scarf and was made with a computerized knitting machine here. Both have more square-looking pixels than my pattern. My pixels make more of a "V" shape because each pixel is only one stitch. Even so, it reads just fine. I intentionally did not put that much data in this code because I wanted to be sure it would work before making anything bigger.

I downloaded some software both to create and read QR codes on my computer. It is freeware and can be downloaded here.

Once you've created the desired QR code, you can print out the picture and number the columns and rows to make following the pattern easier.

The number of pixels across the pattern is will determine how big the pot holder/knit pattern will be. My code was 25 pixels across and I made a 5 stitch border all around, so I started by casting on 35 stitches in white. Remember the white border is important for the code to be read properly.

After cast on, alternate knitting and purling each row until you've worked 8 rows. Now the white border is done.

The next row should be a knit row. Knit 5 stitches in white and then start the first row of the QR code from left to right. Knit 5 more stitches to reach the end of the row.

The next row should be a purl row. Purl 5 stitches and then the second row of the QR code from RIGHT TO LEFT. Purl 5 more stitches to reach the end of the row.

Continue this procedure until the whole QR code is knit. Knit and purl 8 more rows in white to finish the white border. The black outline was done by knitting on a three stitch I-cord. Directions on how to do this are found here.

I did color changes by running the old color along the back of the work until it was used again. This means the back of the work looks like this:

There is a way to double knit so that two layers of fabric are made and all the tails are in the middle and out of sight. I have yet to try this technique.

Simple Arduino SSR Controlled AC Extension Cord or Outlet

***Disclaimer***
Working with wall AC electricity is very dangerous. Make sure everything is unplugged while you are working on wiring. If in doubt, always assume it is live.

Also note: The relay I used does not "click" when it switches state, so do not use that as a test of whether your code it working or not.


Requires:

Arduino
Solid state relay (here's the one I used ~1.5 week delivery)
Small gauge wire
Electrical tape
Extension cord

Step 1: Strip a section of the extension cord so that two (or three if there's a ground pin) wires are showing. Sometimes the ground will also be a metal sheath around the other two wires. In this case the cord just has a hot and a neutral wire. The black is usually hot. The hot wire is the one which the relay is going to be wired to. If you wire it to the neutral wire, then if the relay's input is low, it doesn't mean that there is no electricity to the load, just no complete circuit through the wire.



Step 2: Cut the black wire to make two ends. Strip both ends to connect to the relay.



Step 3: Use a screwdriver to round the bare leads if desired, then screw them down to the two loads on the relay. Be sure to look at the datasheet for the relay to know which pin should come straight from the wall and which should go out to the load. The datasheet for the relay I used can be found here. It's an HFS15 made by Hongfa Technology.



Step 4: Use electrical tape or other insulation to be sure that all metal is covered. It would be very dangerous to leave the screw heads here exposed because anything conductive could bridge the two points and get zapped by 110 V.


Step 5: Use two short small gauge wires to connect to the input line of the relay. These wires will go to the arduino, so be sure they fit inside the connectors.



Step 6: Next task is to program the arduino and wire the relay to the arduino. The pins you plug your control lines to will of course change based on your programming. However you program it though, the ground of the input signal will go the "GND" pin on the arduino. The other wire will go to a digital I/O pin. When the pin is set to HIGH it will turn on the flow of electricity to the load. When it's turned to LOW or if the arduino loses power, it will turn off the flow of electricity.



I admit, it looks really ugly. I may get a project box or something to put all the connections in to make it water proof and neater.


I am using this to control lights and water for my aeroponics system so that if I'm gone for a weekend I don't need to have someone come over and babysit my plants. That being said, the code I wrote is very bad and basic. It gets the job done but is definitely not my final code.

Spray Chalk Recipes

My experience with store bought spray chalk has been somewhat mixed.

Molotow Tech Streetwise Chalk Pigment (black) - definitely NOT temporary. If you are going to use this, you might as well use paint because unlike paint this chalk will fade, but never be completely removed. Besides that though, great crispness and works just like spray paint

Super Spray Chalk made by Rapid Mounting & Finishing Co. - temporary! Works on sidewalks, brick, etc without leaving permanent marks. Downsides are that it uses a pump-action sprayer (like tilex or the likes) and is more watery. This means a stencil out of printer paper will not cut it. Even posterboard is pushing it because it will curl when wet. For stencils made from plastic film though it is fine.

There is an excellent site with more results of other commercial spray chalks here.

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Homemade spray chalk:

I tried two different recipes. The first I found on the internet in several variations but all had the same ingredients. Below are the proportions I used.

4 tablespoons cornstarch
10 tablespoons hot water
6 drops yellow food coloring
4 drops red food coloring

Using a funnel, I put all the ingredients directly into the spray bottle I had from the Super Spray Chalk. However, probably any squirt bottle would work. Just be sure if it was a cleaner or other chemical bottle that it is thoroughly cleaned out first. You can use whatever color food coloring you want. I made orange this time. If you use food dye for cake decorating, you will no doubt need a lot less but will need to experiment with it.

Results:
Each time before use it needs to be shaken vigorously because the cornstarch tends to settle. It is still watery; about the consistency of milk. On sidewalk concrete it took about 7 sprays in one location to create an opaque orange, so may need some more coloring next time. It never clogged, and washed off with the next rainfall. Overall, a definite success! I'll have to test each new food coloring though because some may stain.


The second recipe was more complicated and improvised, but just used standard stick chalk and water.

Half a stick of chalk
10 tablespoons of hot water
Either a mortar and pestle or a hammer and zip-lock bag
Fine strainer (for powder) or grocery bag, funnel and pin


I didn't actually have any materials for turning the chalk into powder, so I improvised. If you have a mortar and pestle, more power to you! If not, put the chalk into a ziplock bag. Double bag it or tape the corners if you're worried about some powder leaking. Use the hammer to hit it on a somewhat soft surface - I used a thinly carpeted floor (if you do it on a hard surface, the chalk will just compress). Continue until it looks like this:


Once it's in small enough pieces, move it to a hard surface such as a desk or wood floor. Now use the top of the hammer and rotate it to crush the remaining pieces into as fine a powder as you can.


Now add this mixture to 10 tablespoons of hot water. Mix as well as possible. Now if you tried to use this in the sprayer it would clog for sure. I poked some pinholes in a plastic bag and put it in a funnel to try to sort out the larger pieces.

Once shaken to mix thoroughly, it worked pretty well. There was still some clogging, so in the future I may have to try using a coffee filter or nylons to try to get the small pieces out. If it does get clogged, I've found a good way to clear it is to take off the sprayer, put a finger over the intake tube, and squeeze the trigger. This usually clears a clog.

Results: Needs to be shaken before use; consistency of milk, washes off in the first rainstorm. The color is quite brilliant, but the nozzle does clog fairly regularly. With a better grinding or filtering technique it could be a good recipe.



Each recipe only makes half a bottle of spray chalk (These are 7oz bottles).

Towel blinds

Looking for a way to brighten up your room? Want to send a message to people outside? Or just need your blinds to be darker because there are lights on outside your window all night?

Using a beach towel, some binder clips, and some removable wall mount hooks, I mounted a towel in my window to block all the unwanted lights of the city. I mounted three hooks at the top of the window; two in the corners and one in the middle. Then I took three binder clips and clipped them to the towel in similar locations. The loops of the binder clips can hang from the hooks. Now the towel is fully suspended.

But how to roll up the blinds? If you don't mind only being able to roll them up halfway, then use two more binder clips to attach the bottom of the towel to the metal bottom of the blinds. Now when you pull up on the blind string, it will lift up the bottom of the towel too. When it's up as high as it will go, the towel will still drape down to the midline of the window.

Stuffed Animal/Doll Hat Pattern

To add to the cuteness of this little lamb, I decided to try out my new fuzzy yarn and to make a tiny hat. This little hat has earflaps and a pompom on top.


I used size 10 circular needles, but it was quite difficult as the hat got smaller. Perhaps a pair of double tipped needles would work better, but I've never used them before.

Anyway, the pattern is as follows. I've used more notation than usual because it really is a pain to write out.
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
Kfb - knit front to back. I learned this from a video on this site.
K2tog - knit two stitches together

Earflap 1:
This part is done back and forth just like if you were using a pair of straight needles.
Row 1: CO 3
Row 2: K1, P1, K1
Row 3: K1, Kfb1, K1 (now there are 4 stitches)
Row 4: K1, Kfb2, K1 (6 stitches)
Row 5 and 6: K6
Row 7: K1, Kfb1, K2, Kfb1, K1 (8 stitches)

Now cut the lead to the first earflap, long enough that you can tie it or weave it back in. This is the only tail to weave that you'll have.

Slide the earflap along your needles so it's out of the way but the stitches are still held open. Alternatively you could transfer it to another needle or chopstick if you're using double ended needles.

Follow the earflap pattern above to create the other side. This time DO NOT CUT the lead. Instead, cast on 8 stitches in your favorite method (I just looped them around the right needle). Now slide the other earflap onto the left needle. Knit 8 stitches so that on the right needle you should have: one earflap, 8 loops, one earflap. Next cast on 10 stitches as you did with the previous eight.

Now it's time to start circular knitting.

Row 1-3: K
Row 4: K2tog
Row 5-6: K
Row 7: K2tog
Row 8: K
Row 9: K2tog
Row 10: use a tapestry needle to thread through the remaining stitches and tie tight.

Just turn inside out, and voila! I added a little pom pom just for fun. There should be two tails from each earflap that can be cut and tied, or a tassel or pom pom could be added to those too.

Plarn Knit Bag Pattern

Here is my first pattern ever!
This was done on size 10 round knitting needles.

Cast on 120 stitches.
Knit rows 1-20

Row 21:
Cast off 20 stitches
Knit 40
Cast off 20
Knit 40

Row 22:
Cast on 20
Knit 40
Cast on 20
Knit 40

Knit 2, Purl 2 until it's a good length (mine was 12").

Decreasing:
Row 1: Knit 2, Purl 2 together
Row 2-4: Knit 2, Purl 1
Row 5: Knit 2 together, Purl 1
Row 6-9: Knit 1, Purl 1
Row 10: Knit 2 together, Purl 2 together
Row 11: Knit 1, Purl 1
Row 12: Knit 2 together, Purl 2 together
Row 13: Knit 1, Purl 1

Now run the plarn through the loops of the remaining stitches. There should be about 10 of them. If the bag wrinkles because it's pulled too tightly too quickly, repeat row 12 and 13 until it's ready to be tied off.





I put a design on mine of a recycle sign. I made two mistake. The pattern is backwards! I printed the image onto graph paper to determine where I should stitch with brown bags instead of white bags. I did not flip the image in order to maintain the correct direction when I flipped the bag right side out (it was knitted inside out). The second mistake was that I assumed stitches are square. That is, they are the same height from top to bottom. When I started the pattern I realized that they are much wider than tall. So I doubled my design pattern. Where I had planned to do one row of knitting per row of squares on the graph paper, I actually did two. The ratio must not be exactly 1:2 though, because the pattern does look stretched from top to bottom.





Something else that I had no control over was a natural spiraling that happened as I knit. This means that the design, which was supposed to be centered around the handle, was not quite.






Soon I'm going to start on another bag and will update the pattern and post directions for transferring an image to a knit pattern.

Packaging Tape Sculpture

So after seeing the work of Mark Jenkins and the likes, I decided to make my very own packaging tape sculpture. The ultimate plan is to make people - or maybe birds - and light them from the inside and then place them up in trees in a public place. During the day they would seem like ghosts climbing trees. At night they'd become glow-people. Perhaps I could buy some of the $3 solar garden lights and use those so there wouldn't be any pesky extension cords for people walking by to unplug.

Anyway onto what I've done so far. My sister has sportingly agreed to be my mold. I have only done half of her at a time to allow the skin to breathe properly. Even so, it is important to be quick and not to cut off circulation.

First, cover the model in saran wrap. This was my first time so I only did one layer. If using a doll or some other inanimate object that might be fine, but with a person it's probably a good idea to use two layers. Make sure to keep it loose or it will be difficult to get off!


The next step is to cover the saran wrap with clear packaging tape. It was very hard not to miss anywhere, so I put on two layers. This was fine for the ankle and calf area, but around the thighs it might have been a good idea to use three or four layers for extra structural support.

Once all taped up, it's time to carefully cut it off.


After it's cut, carefully have your model step out. What is left is a hollow structure. Do not fear if it looks misshapen.


Now start at the toes or other small ends and use short strips of tape to carefully line up the edges where it was cut earlier. Taping up the edges will add a lot of structural support. I taped up a little past the hips so that when I do the torso later I will have some overlap where it combines. Below are some shots of the finished bottom half.

Harkonnen Cannon Tutorial

Intro:

The harkonnen cannon is a weapon the character Seras Victoria carries in the anime Hellsing. This tutorial creates a cannon that is 6' 3” long. Otakon, the first convention I am going to, has a limit of 6' 6” for any weapons, so this should fall well below that. The directions that follow make exactly what I made. There are certainly some changes I would recommend. Firstly, PVC pipe is fairly heavy. I would recommend trying to use ABS piping instead, as I've heard it is three times lighter. I have not used ABS piping before, so will not attempt to instruct on how to use it. Also note that this design has a joint about halfway along the barrel that can be unscrewed. This is to allow for easy transportation in a car. Note: In this tutorial “front” refers to where the bullet would come out of the barrel, “top” is where you would aim along, “bottom” is the base of the handle grip, and “back” is the part that rests against your shoulder.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

Main barrel:

• 1x 2” PVC or ABS piping (10 ft)
• 1x 3” PVC or ABS piping (3 ft)
• 2x 2 to 3” PVC external adapter
• 3x 3” PVC coupler
• 1x 2 to 3” PVC external adapter
• 2x 2” 45 degree joints
• 1x male ABS 3” screw joint
• 1x female ABS 3” screw joint

Handle region:

• 2x 18” drainpipe (large size)
• 1x sheet of dense pink foam
• 1x roll of electrical tape

Legs:

• 1” PVC pipe (about 2 ft)
• Scrap pink foam from earlier
• Electrical tape from earlier
• 2x bolts with nuts
• 1x Small piece of wood
• 1x General hinge

Misc:

• 1 can Black metallic textured paint
• 1 bottle white paint (I used tempra, but any should work)
• 1 paintbrush
• 2 screws with large round heads for optional guitar strap
• PVC primer and PVC cement
• Wood screws for hinge (usually 4) and attaching drainpipe (I used 3)
• 5 minute epoxy
• Marker
• Glue stick
• Printer (to print out stencil for lettering)

Tools you will need or want:

• Hand saw (or band saw/table saw if you prefer)
• Vice (if using hand saw)
• Exacto knife or razor blade
• Drill and drill bits
• Pliers (for bending the drainpipe)
• Tape Measure
• File
• Tin Snips or other tool to cut the drainpipe metal
• Ruler

STEP 1: Cut PVC lengths
Need: Hand saw, vice, 2” and 3” PVC pipe

Remember to add the depth of the fitting that will be on either end to each of the below measurements, as I am measuring them again after assembly, so cannot include those.

2” PVC:
26” piece
2+” (for the stock to attach to)
3” PVC
14” piece
Two 1/2” pieces

STEP 2: Assemble PVC fittings WITHOUT using PVC cement
Need: Cut PVC from step 1 and PVC fittings

Order from left to right with the handle on the right side:
3 to 2” external coupler
26” long 2” PVC pipe
2 to 3” external coupler
female ABS adapter (threads on inside)
male ABS adapter (threads on outside)
1/2” long 3” PVC pipe
3” coupler
14” long 3” PVC pipe
3” coupler
1/2” long 3” PVC pipe
3” coupler
Internal 3 to 2” coupler
45 degree 2” PVC bend (facing downward)
45 degree 2” PVC bend (facing upward)
2+” long of 2” PVC pipe



STEP 3: Cut and bend the drainpipe
Need: Pliers, Tin Snips, both drainpipe sections, assembled barrel for measuring

First slide the two pieces of drainpipe together (they will slide inside each other when the right ends are put together).

The top of the drainpipe will sit flat against the 3” PVC pipe, but the coupling are in the way. So, cut a slit across the top of the drainpipe at the seam of the coupler and the pipe. Do the same on the other side of the coupler. Now use the pliers or just your hands to press the part of the drainpipe down that will be touching the coupler. It should indent enough that the drainpipe is touching the barrel both along the coupler and along the pipe. Sorry no pictures, it's almost impossible to see now that it's assembled!

Now on the front end, you will need to cut a slit down each corner. Then bend in the two short tabs, and finally the two long tabs. For the back end, only cut the bottom two corners. Now bend in the short tab like before, but only bend in the corners so that there's more of an angle. On the other short face of this end, cut a slit down the middle of the face and bend them upward so they seem to extend the two longer sides. These tabs will eventually be screwed to the barrel.

Front end:
Back end:


STEP 4: Carve the Handle and trigger area
Need: Razor blade, hand saw, ruler, marker, foam

This was mostly done to fit. I made it narrow enough to fit my hand around while still trying to keep the right proportions. The trigger was also made from foam and glued with epoxy in place. Make sure that you leave the part above the trigger hole solid so that when you go to glue the handle in place, there will be a lot of surface area touching the drainpipe. My measurements are 2-2.5” from front to back on the grip and maybe 2” wide. The diagonal from the base of the grip (including the jutting out part right at the bottom) to the top of the trigger hole is 6”. The trigger hole itself is 2.75” from front to back and 1.25” from top to bottom at its widest part.



STEP 5: Cover the foam handle with electrical tape
Need: electrical tape

Wrap the tape at a slight angle around the handle until all the visible parts are covered. If you do not, then when you paint the foam it will have a much different texture than the rest of the gun.

STEP 6: Attach the handle to the drainpipe
Need: 5-minute epoxy or other good glue, drainpipe, Tin Snips

Cut out a rectangle in the bottom of the drainpipe that the handle will fit into. Also cut a curve along the two sides so that you can see through the trigger hole. The midline of the trigger hole (from top to bottom) should be in line with the bottom edge of the drainpipe. It will take some wiggling to get the handle into the hole. Glue the foam to the inside of the drainpipe and glue in two small foam spacers between the handle and the sides of the drainpipe.



STEP 7: Cut foam filler block and cover in tape
Need: Razor blade, hand saw, ruler, marker, foam

I cut a small rectangle of foam, just enough to cap the end of the drainpipe. It's snug enough I didn't need to glue it, but a dab of epoxy should hold it in place if it's loose.

STEP 8: Carve foam stock and cover in tape
Need: Razor blade, hand saw, ruler, marker, foam, electrical tape

Make sure it is wide enough to have the 2” pipe inside it. Besides that it's mostly done to taste. Mine measures 5” from front to back, 6” from top to bottom, and 4” wide at the back (where it rests against your shoulder).



STEP 9: Make legs
Need: hand saw, marker, drill, hinge & screws for it, block of wood, 2 bolts with nuts, vice

The small wooden block should be about 4”x1”x3/4”(or less). Cut two lengths of 1” PVC. I cut my legs 9” long. You will need to cut a slot on one end of each of the PVC pipes. The slot needs to be the width of the smallest dimension of the piece of wood. Use a drill bit that is the size of the bolts you are using plus the threading on the bolt. Drill through the remaining tabs of PVC and the block of wood. Slide the bolt in and tighten the nut such that you can still move the PVC, but that it will not swing freely. Do the same for the other PVC pipe on the other end of the piece of wood.



I used some scrap pieces of foam to wrap around the bottom part of the legs to make them wider. I held the foam on with electrical tape. Again, cover all the foam with the electrical tape.



Attach the hinge to the opposite side of where the legs extend from. Make sure that it's in a direction that will work with the range of motion of your hinge. Later the other end of the hinge will be attached to the barrel.

STEP 10: Disassemble and paint
Need: Paint, newspapers?, good ventilation

As you disassemble, use painter's tape or masking tape to tape off at least the last inch of the PVC pipes and an inch of the inside of the fittings. This way they will not get paint on them that will interfere with bonding the parts later.

Also make sure to get inside of the 3” part of the coupler that will be the front of the barrel of the gun.

STEP 11: Bond the PVC pieces together
Need: PVC parts, PVC primer (purple), PVC cement

If you have never bonded PVC together or even if you have, carefully read the directions on both bottles.

WARNING – PVC primer stains everything horribly, including hands. Please wear gloves and go somewhere ventilated as the fumes are also very potent.

The first thing you are going to do is put on the PVC primer. It does not take a lot and is very liquidy, so wipe off most of what's on the brush on the inside edge of the can before you brush it onto the PVC. Coat both the outer edge of PVC pipe and the inner edge of the PVC fitting (only exception is the internal 2 to 3” adapter where you coat the inside of the pipe and outside of the fitting). The purple primer should dry in 30 seconds or so. It doesn't really matter, but I'd recommend doing all the priming at once just so you don't have to keep switching between bottles.

Now you're ready for the PVC cement. Read the directions on the bottle. This is the tricky part because once you have the PVC cement on the pipe, you only have maybe a 10 second window to get the pipe in place how you want it to be. Double check that the piece is the right one and that it is oriented the way you want it (especially for the 45 degree bend pieces). Try not to put too much cement on or it will ooze out of the joint when you put them together. You just want a thin even coating. Once coated, press the pipe firmly in the fitting and hold for a minute or so. This will prevent the cement from pushing the pipe out a little and not making a straight bond.

STEP 12: Attach the drainpipe
Need: drill, drainpipe, assembled barrel, screws, pliers?

The drainpipe should still fit well against the barrel because of the slots you cut before to make room for the fittings. Gently unfold the flaps at the closed end of the drainpipe (side towards the front). Use the drill to pre-drill a hole that is the size of the screw without the threads. Then use the drill to put a screw where you already drilled. Now refold the flaps.

The two flaps that are on either side of the gun near where the handle is will be the next place to screw. One screw (also pre-drilled) into each flap should hold it tightly against the PVC. I screwed mine through the flaps directly into the front-most 45 degree PVC joint.

STEP 13: Attach the legs
Need: drill, assembled barrel, assembled legs, 2 screws

Find how far you would like the legs to be in front of the drainpipe. Mine is attached to the 2 to 3” coupler that is right in front of the screw joint in the barrel. Set the free end of the hinge down where you'd like it to be. Pre-drill two holes through the holes in the hinge. Be sure to drill straight down, not towards the center of the PVC. This is important because the hinge is flat and we're attaching it to a round surface. When the screws are tight, there will still be a gap. In order to have the screw heads flush against the hinge, they must be pointing straight downward. Now start to drill one of the screws. Just get it started, then do the next screw. Switch between the two, tightening first one then the other so that the hinge does not get pulled to one side or the other.

STEP 14: Attach the stock
Need: Foam stock, assembled barrel, epoxy

Mix some epoxy and hold or tape the stock in place on the end of the 2” PVC while the epoxy dries. This will not be an incredibly firm joint, so you will need to be careful with it in the future.

STEP 15: Paint detail work
Need: Paper, scissors, printer, white paint, paintbrush, glue stick

I used Microsoft Word to make the stencil. I used “Stencil” font, not surprisingly. To make scalable words, I inserted the text as WordArt. There are different words on the gun if you want to make the English or Japanese version. I used “HARKONNEN CANNON” and “30MM”. The “MM” was in smaller font.

Once you print out the lettering with the right size, use scissors to cut out the inside of the letters. I cut straight in from the bottom of each letter and then taped over the slit I had used to cut into the letter with scotch tape. Be patient, this part takes a while.

When done cutting out the letters, get the glue stick. Determine where you want the lettering to start, then glue the paper in place on the drainpipe. Be sure to smooth it out and don't be afraid to use a generous amount of glue. The goal is to have all the edges of the letters firmly attached to the drainpipe.

Now dip the brush into the white paint and carefully dab it on over the letters. You will need to put it on pretty thick in order to get a pure white. When all the letters are covered, gently pull off the piece of paper. I discovered that some of the paint smeared a tiny bit between the letters, so when the paper was off, I got a toothpick and carefully removed any paint that was unwanted.

Let the paint dry thoroughly so it won't smear.



OPTIONAL STEP 16: Attach screws for strap
Need: Drill, two screws, guitar strap

Use two screws with large heads. But check first with your guitar strap to make sure that you can put the strap on over the heads and that it will not cut into the leather or plastic. Next pick a location to put the two screws. I put one in the diagonal edge on the same 2 to 3” coupler I attached the legs to. The other was near the back of the first 45 degree angle joint. They are probably pretty large, so go ahead and pre-drill with the size of the screw minus the size of the threads. Screw them in, leaving about a quarter inch of space for the strap to sit in.

You're all done!

Quick Day Knitting - 2 Size Balls

I was looking for a fun, relatively easy knitting project that could be completed in a few hours. I found the perfect pattern here. Instead of using different colored yarn to make wedges of color, I used self-striping yarn. On the larger ball (about 5 or 6" diameter) it made a spiraling pattern. On the small ball (about 3 or 4" diameter) it made a consistent striped pattern that went over halfway down the ball and is symmetric around the knitting needle axis.


This pattern is really nice because there is no purling! Just simple knitting which is mostly mindless. A word of advice - before casting off, knit a very loose row. If you don't do this, then when you cast off it will make a tight, inelastic row. As you stuff the ball, it will appear to have an indent, or what I lovingly mentally label as a yarn butt-crack.




The smaller ball I made into a cat toy by putting some catnip in along with the stuffing. I couldn't find any velcro or I would have made it refillable. Within five minutes the cats were on it. Don't expect the stitches to stay tight; there are already several loose ones. It has been a day and it has held up so far. Next time I'd like to add a bell inside or some crumpled paper so the ball will make some noise when tossed down the hall.