Sunday, October 31, 2010

Finished Star Wars Battle Droid Stencil

Star Wars Battle Droid Stencil Art

I used some ziplock bags with dry rice in them to use as weights. Alternatively you could use sand or dirt to fill the bags. Even though there wasn't much wind, just the occasional breeze was enough to disturb the stencil.


The white layer turned out pretty well. It did take a lot longer to dry than I had anticipated, probably because it was done in the shade and not in the sun. I just left it alone for about an hour until I came back to do the next layer.


Alignment of the second layer took a lot of time to get just right. Especially the smaller pieces which required a substantial use of double-sided tape to get to stay in the right places. In the end though I was very satisfied with the results.


Things to change for the future when using shower curtain stencils:

Make sure to store them in a rolled position even though they were initially folded when bought. The creases make thin sections impossible to lay flat. Also pick designs that have more connected spaces. Sections of curtain that extend like peninsulas don't stay in place very well at all.

Still overall it's a phenomenal success!

Saturday, October 30, 2010

Making A Star Wars Droid Stencil


I designed this droid stencil to have two layers, a bottom white layer and a top black layer. The composite should look something like the image above. I made this stencil out of a shower curtain that I had planned to use with the aeroponics system, but it had gotten replaced by roll down windows blinds instead.

After using some software to poster print the design, I taped together the pages and laid them on top of the flat shower curtain. Using a sharp exacto knife, I cut through the paper and the curtain along the outline.



 Once all the scrap paper and curtain was removed, I was left with a stencil like the picture below. Note that in each leg there is a branch that connects to the white section between the legs. The two branches will not show up in the final design because they are in sections that will be completely covered with black.


The black layer contained all the details and was more complicated. The pictures of the black layer are below.



Tomorrow I'm going to try stenciling it outside with some homemade spray chalk.

Monday, October 25, 2010

Sugar Snap Pea Pods


So far I have discovered four pea pods. There are still several blossoms left and even more budding. I'm so excited to have some home grown sugar snap peas for the first time in years!

Friday, October 22, 2010

Sugar Snap Pea Blossoms!


About a half dozen to a dozen flowers and flower buds seem to have shown up almost overnight. I did some research about how to pollinate sugar snap peas, and it appears they can either be cross bread or self-pollinated. As I only have one type of plant anyway, self-pollination is the best. It is even ideal.



 

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

New Watering Scheme's Effect


 I was out of town for a few days and before I left I changed the watering scheme for the plants. Previously the plants had been watered four times during a 14 hour day, for five minutes at a time. The plants were looking dry (the leaves were wilted and brownish). Initially I had thought the problem was nutrient concentration and changed the solution. Unfortunately, that only prolonged the real problem of dehydration.

So the new program waters the plants for eight times during a 14 hour day, for two minutes at a time. The reduced water time is because the roots are saturated rather quickly, and after that point, additional spraying doesn't increase the water coverage.

When I arrived home I saw the plants were doing very well! The lettuce, which was particularly effected by the water shortage were now huge.


A particularly large lettuce plant was stunting the growth of nearby lettuce plants. This indicates that the plants are too close together at this size. I rearranged the lettuce plants to have as little overlap as possible. I plan to eat the outer leaves of the largest lettuce plants so that they all stay a reasonable size. I'll try to keep the plants as big as the lower two in the picture below or smaller.


The rest of the plants are also doing better. The peas are still floppy, and I forgot to pick up some stiff wire mesh to make cages out of for them. The broccoli and cauliflower plants look very strong and the stems are pretty tough. I expect it will still be quite a while until flowering though judging by the thickness of the stalk when they're sold in stores compared to the current thickness.


Sunday, October 10, 2010

Mini Sun Jar



Here are the insides of my sun jar. It's very simple, a light sensor, a battery, and an LED. There are leads for a solar panel but it was slightly too big to fit in this tiny plastic mason jar.


To frost the plastic I used some Matte Finish spray paint which I had lying around from the packaging tape sculpture project. The pictures below show the difference between an unlit jar and a lit jar.Note: the dark spot is electrical tape and either will be removed or replaced with white electrical tape so it doesn't show up.



Right now it works, but I would like to integrate the solar panel and use a warmer colored LED to make it glow yellow instead of white.

video

Friday, October 8, 2010

Knit QR Code Potholder Pattern



So far I have found only two websites that have finished a knit QR code. Both used very fine yarn and several stitches per pixel. I found a hand knit QR code here. The other one was embedded in a scarf and was made with a computerized knitting machine here. Both have more square-looking pixels than my pattern. My pixels make more of a "V" shape because each pixel is only one stitch. Even so, it reads just fine. I intentionally did not put that much data in this code because I wanted to be sure it would work before making anything bigger.

I downloaded some software both to create and read QR codes on my computer. It is freeware and can be downloaded here.

Once you've created the desired QR code, you can print out the picture and number the columns and rows to make following the pattern easier.

The number of pixels across the pattern is will determine how big the pot holder/knit pattern will be. My code was 25 pixels across and I made a 5 stitch border all around, so I started by casting on 35 stitches in white. Remember the white border is important for the code to be read properly.

After cast on, alternate knitting and purling each row until you've worked 8 rows. Now the white border is done.

The next row should be a knit row. Knit 5 stitches in white and then start the first row of the QR code from left to right. Knit 5 more stitches to reach the end of the row.

The next row should be a purl row. Purl 5 stitches and then the second row of the QR code from RIGHT TO LEFT. Purl 5 more stitches to reach the end of the row.

Continue this procedure until the whole QR code is knit. Knit and purl 8 more rows in white to finish the white border. The black outline was done by knitting on a three stitch I-cord. Directions on how to do this are found here.

I did color changes by running the old color along the back of the work until it was used again. This means the back of the work looks like this:



There is a way to double knit so that two layers of fabric are made and all the tails are in the middle and out of sight. I have yet to try this technique.